The Pearl of Venice

These are the notes from the classes I taught at Pennsic and Hrim Schola. You are welcome to use and share this information with others as long as it is attributed to me, Catalina Doro, aka Heather Rigaud.

The picture to the right is my proto corset that I wear under my Venetian gowns. It's made from silk satin and two layers of Linen, stiffened with hemp cord and a wooden busk down the center.  

Period Breast Support- 4 Methods

Method I Breast Binding
Period Used: Throughout history
Documentable :yes.

This involves using a long strip of linen to bind the breasts. Depending on how the second layer is wrapped, the breast can be compressed flat, or can be raised up.

The Silhouette is either flattened or raised. Linen has a high amount of natural stretch, so care must be taken to make the binding tight.

"If her breasts are too heavy she should take a scarf or towel to bind them against her
chest and wrap it right around her ribs, securing it with needle and thread or by a knot;
thus she can be active at her play."
Jean de Meun, The Romance of the Rose, Paris, 1360 (line 13329 ff.)

More information here and here.

Information cheerfully borrowed from Kass McCann and Marie Chantal
Cadieux

Method II Strophium (has other names)
Period Used: Roman era through high middle ages
Documentable: Yes

This involves using a long (120") strip of wool wrapped about the chest and tied in the front under the breasts.

The silhouette is somewhat lumpy but it beats bra-straps. Using wool is important here, as the springiness of the fiber helps make this work.

More information here

Information borrowed (with permission) from Baroness Rufinia

 

Method III Breast Supportive Gown
Period Used: 14th C – end
Documentable: Yes (maybe)

This involves tailoring an undergown, made of linen, sometime with an outer layer of wool or silk, to support the breasts.

The silhouette is shapely, with breast being either rounded (mono-boob) or pushed high.This is the method developed by Robin Netherton and her famous Gothic Fitted Gown. The pattern has been further experimented with (and published) by Tasha McGann aka Mistress Marcele de Montsegur.
More information here

Method IV Proto-Corset & Corset (Pair of Bodies,  Pettiera)
Period: 16th Century
Documentable: Yes (Maybe)

This involves using a (roughly) vest-shaped garment that is tightly fitted to support the breasts. The garment is made from linen, wool, silk or some combination there in, and may be stiffed with reeds (documented), cardboard (documented) or hemp twine (not documented). There is also at least one extant corset made from steel.

The silhouette varies according to the fashion of the times, usually breast are high, and can be rounded or flattened. The later the period, the easier it is to document.
More information here and here.

Information cheerfully borrowed from Jen Thompson and Deborah Lane aka Mistress Oonagh O'Neill.