The Pearl of Venice

The Ribbon Tied Gown is a fashion that was quite popular in the period between 1510 to 1530 Venice, archiving its high point around 1520. The gown featured a closely fitted bodice, which is tied close in the front with 3 or more pairs of ribbons or cords. The opening has a small gap, under which a white camicia is revealed. No extent garment remains of this style from this time, but by working from art of the period, as well as legal documented describing fashions of the period and other historical sources, a plausible recreation is possible.

The besides the bodice, these gowns consistently had large, full sleeves, called Dogale at the time. Sleeves were very important in Venetian culture, as they directly indicated a man's status in the government and society. Women's sleeves reflected this status symbol. Dogale sleeves were the cut allowed to the Doge (hence the name) and his highest ministers. The gowns are sometimes paired with an undersleeve in the a' comeo cut, which are gathered into a long cuff.

The art is limited in the area of skirts, most paintings not clearly showing the subjects' waist or skirts. In the paintings that do show this, it appears that the skirts are either box pleated or cartridge pleated. This would be consistent with the other style gowns from this era & area.

Gowns at this time and location were made from silk or wool. Venice was a major center of silk production at that time, and it was an easily obtained resource. Wool was usually imported from other parts of Italy or from northern Europe.

This gown is made from navy blue silk satin. The skirt is lined with black tabby woven silk (china) and the sleeves are underlined with silk organza to add shaping, and lined with more black china silk.  The bodice is underlined with silk organza from shape, and then lined with two layers of black linen. The front opening has been stiffened with several channels of reeds, to keep it straight and neat. The dogale sleeves are open along the top and tied closed with more ribbons. The sleeves are pleated into the armseye. The skirt is cartridge pleated into the bodice, and here is where a modern shortcut was used. The skirt is pleated using modern cartridge pleating tape. While I found the tape quick and it served it's purpose, I was not pleased with the seam lines it created and haven't used it in any more projects. The neckline has been trimmed with matching velvet ribbon.